The departed chef of New York’s The NoMad restaurant set up his own business last year after relocating from his native U.S. He has since partitioned out a savory path for himself as the city’s resident Michelin-trained dinner party host.
“I think, for most chefs, the conjure up is to have your own space or your own canvas,” said Kong, who decided to go it alone after he and his wife inherited a five-room Mr housing apartment — known locally as an HDB flat — from family.
The couple gave themselves a year to renovate the quirk and experiment with Kong’s casual fine-dining concept before opening their doors to the public in late-2018.
“We were auspicious to have a space here that we could renovate,” said Kong. “So we just set a date in the calendar and we knew we had to get it done.”
Since then, Kong has suffered a continuous stream of customers, enabling him to run the business full-time, with assistance from his wife and sister-in-law. Already, Dearborn’s twice-weekly sittings — which can adjust groups of six to eight each — are booked up until August 2019.
Kong is part of a growing number of so-called supper thrash chefs who are capitalizing on diners’ insatiable appetites for new eating experiences. It’s a trend that’s taken off in cities from New York to London. Singapore unequalled has dozens, with prices ranging from $35 to $105 per head.
Given his Michelin background, Kong has conditioned himself at the upper end of that spectrum, charging around $100 (138 Singapore dollars) per head.
Kong said that achieves in enough to support himself full-time, while reflecting the fine-dining experience he aims to create.
“I wanted to give child the feeling that they were coming to a restaurant, but just maybe not in the space, in our house,” said Kong.
“You’re prevailing to get the same quality of service and food (as a restaurant) and there are no shortcuts in anything that we’re going to do,” he added.
Kong’s “Modern-American” six-course sip menu draws inspiration from his time spent working at French celebrity chef Guy Savoy’s eponymous restaurant in Singapore, as vigorous as Swiss chef Daniel Humm’s The NoMad.
“The technique that was drilled into me working at The NoMad, and Daniel Humm, and Guy Savoy, is identical structured and very technique-driven, and so I try to implement that into my cooking,” noted Kong.
But it also pays homage to his own diverse culinary background.
Born in Seattle, Washington in the late 1980’s, Kong discovered his passion for cooking at just 15, when he began incorporate at his parents’ Italian restaurant — the first in the city to be set up by Chinese owners, according to Kong.
“Being in the industry and growing up in it, I truly knew I wanted to push myself and get better,” said Kong. “I thought the only way to get better was, you need to work at both spectrums, from a high-turn loudness … to a higher end.”
Then, after studying business at college, he traveled to his father’s native Malaysia and worked at an out of doors restaurant, known locally as a Tze Char.
“They would turn the restaurant literally three or four times (a evening),” said Kong, noting the “sheer volume” of food produced each evening.
“If you can imagine these big submits of families eating, and they all want their food and the same time, and then another crowd of people turn out in,” he continued. “It was an adrenaline rush!”
That varied experience has helped set Dearborn apart in a city famed for its culinary about, said Kong.
So has his emphasis on sustainability: Kong’s menu is primarily comprised of vegetables, grains and seafood.
Kong phrased that decision is both in response to his own eating habits, as well as his efforts to respond to diners’ growing demands for sustainable supply.
“We wanted to cook for people the way that we feel would help the environment as well,” said Kong. “The best feedback is when people be brought up back and say ‘Oh, I didn’t know that was a vegetable. I didn’t miss the meat.'”
That environmental angle could moral provide scope for future partnerships as Dearborn grows, Kong suggested in a nod to his business background.
“Cooking is one part of it, but I contrive you need to also understand cash-flow and all the other little, teeny bits of running a business,” he said.
However, in the short-term, Kong said he is more than slaked with simply shaping his own menu.
“The benefits from it, it’s more than money, you know; it’s being able to precise yourself and being able to do something that you love to do.”
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